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Ubatuba, Brazil: A Rainforest Retreat That Felt Like Home

Ubatuba, Brazil. Who’s heard of it, right? I hadn’t either, until I did. And let me tell you, this place was heaven on earth.

Before the trip, I’ll be honest, I was a little nervous. It was my first time driving a long distance in a foreign country, and to top it off, I barely spoke five words of Portuguese. But the moment we landed in São Paulo, something shifted. I expected four hours of intense focus behind the wheel. What I got instead? A completely smooth, surprisingly peaceful experience.

The Drive That Set the Mood (It’s worthy to mention because it’s the only way you’re getting to Ubatuba)

Picking up the rental car was seamless, and the drive from São Paulo to Ubatuba was about three hours. It took us through the stunning Serra do Mar Mountain range. Normally, I hate mountain driving. I’m not a fan of winding roads and steep drops. But to my surprise, the highways were safe, well-maintained, and easy to navigate. As we approached the coast, the scenery started to shift, and it was pure magic.

The road into Ubatuba hugged the ocean in the most dreamy way. Picture rustic beach towns, tropical forest canopies, and a vibe that instantly says: slow down, breathe, and enjoy. I could already feel the tension leaving my body before we even arrived.

Our Home in Paradise: Sitio Promontório

The entire goal of this trip was simple: rest and recharge. Life had been busy- too busy, for both my daughter and I, and I wanted somewhere we could be wrapped in nature, unwind, and just be. Our Airbnb, Sitio Promontório, was exactly that. And more.

When we arrived, I was almost speechless. Perched on a hillside, nestled in rainforest, and overlooking endless blue sea and distant islands, this place looked like it had been pulled from a dream. The property is tucked inside a high-security gated area with only a few other private homes, giving it that perfect mix of secluded and safe.

The house itself? Think Greek-inspired architecture with a splash of Brazilian soul: whitewashed walls, lush plants everywhere, and open-air living that makes you feel like you’re part of the forest. Three spacious levels. An infinity pool with a jaw-dropping ocean view. Hammocks. Swings. A pool table. Every room faced the sea. Every. Single. Room.

And our backyard rainforest? Had two waterfalls. Yes, actual waterfalls.

Life at the Villa

We settled in quickly. Days were slow, in the best way: sleeping in, morning dips in the pool, hiking through the rainforest, spotting tropical flowers I’d never seen before, and eating dinner outside on the patio while the sun melted into the ocean. I fell in love with the stone outdoor shower. It was private and freeing in a way I didn’t know I needed. There was a beautiful jacuzzi tub inside my room too which was fantastic (hot water the entire time), but that outdoor shower stole my heart. There’s something liberating about being your true self in nature.

 

Our days were peaceful. No pressure to do or be anywhere. Just us, nature, and quiet joy.

Sunrise & Unforgettable Moments

I am very far from being a morning person. I have a love for sunsets, but you won’t catch me awake for a sunrise…nope. However, at the recommendation of my Airbnb host, on our last morning, I woke up early and caught the sunrise. And it got me. The sky turned every shade of orange, pink, and purple at once. It was so beautiful, I cried. Truly. Nature has a way of moving you when you slow down long enough to notice. It was worth every second of sleep I missed that morning.

A Taste of Ubatuba

Although we could’ve easily stayed at the house the whole time, we did venture into the town of Ubatuba to check out the local beaches, restaurants, and shops. The town itself had a small outdoor mall, charming in its own way, and I had one of the best crepes I’ve ever eaten.

But the real star? A dish I’m still dreaming about: Moqueca de peixe com palmito e banana at Restaurant Raízes. Oh. My. Goodness. It’s now officially my favorite meal ever. Served in a bubbling molcajete bowl with fish, banana, creamy savory sauce, rice, and homemade chili oils—it was perfection. I would go back to Ubatuba just for that dish.

A Day on the Sea

One of the biggest highlights of our trip came near the end. Our Airbnb host arranged a private chartered boat for us, and it was the best decision ever. Less than 5 minutes from our villa, we met our captain, Jeferson, who didn’t speak English, but somehow made me feel like I had known him for years. Funny, warm, and so knowledgeable about Ubatuba’s 100+ beaches.

We spent 8 hours hopping from one beach to another, about 20 in total. Some were private and untouched, others specialized in local snacks like açaí and pastel. At one point, we anchored and swam to shore. The water was shallow (nothing crazy!), and we had entire stretches of sand completely to ourselves. It was magical.

One pastel in particular was stuffed with gooey cheese and fresh tomato. It stole my heart. I literally messaged Captain Jeferson after returning home to try and get the recipe. Spoiler: I couldn’t recreate it. 😅 But that’s what makes it special.

 

To cap off the boat ride, Jeferson let me take the wheel. For a moment, I was Captain Whitney Paige. Let’s just say I should stick to planning trips, not navigating boats. 😂 Still, unforgettable.

Final Thoughts

Ubatuba was one of those places that felt like home even though I had never been. I can’t wait to go back, and next time, I’m staying longer.

Pro tip: Travel during Brazil’s winter season. It’s cheaper, the weather is still perfect, and the crowds are gone. Peace, quiet, and paradise.

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